Day 10

We spent our last day in Israel visiting in Afula - our Partnership 2000 sister city. Our morning began with a visit to the seam line checkpoint between Afula and the West Bank. Afula's close proximity to the town of Jenin made the area a hot bed of terrorism in the second intifada. 75% of the terrorists who engaged in suicide missions in Israel came from Jenin. Today the situation is completely different. Because of the cooperative efforts between the mayors of Afula/Gilboa and Jenin a spirit of cooperation and coexistence has emerged with the understanding that economic growth in the West Bank and Israel benefits all people. As of two months ago, Israeli Arabs are now allowed to travel back and forth through the checkpoint by car rather than just walking through on foot. This has allowed the economy in Jenin to grow by 40%. We were brought to the roof of the checkpoint and we were briefed by the man who manages the facility. It was incredibly enlightening to learn about the great success that has arisen from this area that was plagued by terrorism and mistrust. As we observed the view from the roof of this very successful checkpoint, it was hard not to be impressed by the peaceful and cooperative atmosphere in the area. We all wished that this was the story that made the news about Israel.

From that visit we traveled to a sifriyat pyjama (PJ Library) kindergarten classroom in Afula. We learned about how the program runs in Israel and we observed a lesson being taught. It was a lovely visit where we also learned about the demographics and challenges of the region. The books from this program are a real gift to the families who receive them and can not afford to buy their own home libraries.

After lunch a program supported by the Southern New England Consortium Partners (SNEC) was our next stop. This was a program run through the Jewish Agency's Youth Futures program. We visited children who live in very difficult home conditions and were not able to be successful in school. The youth futures program provides a holistic approach to children and families to give them they support needed to be successful in school and eventually in life. The children participate in classes that offer counseling, teach self esteem and life skills, communication skills, art therapy, music and much more. A team approach is taken between social workers, teachers and physicians to ensure that each child's needs are met fully. The program utilizes small groups with mentors so that all children receive one on one attention. We were all impressed with this model and felt that our inner cities in the United States could learn some lessons from this program. Proudly, our community supports this effort to make these childrens' lives better every day.

Our next visit was with middle school students who participate in a project through the Ethiopian National Project (ENP). This program takes the best and brightest students who come from disadvantaged homes and gives them the tools to be successful. The vast majority of the children who participate are new immigrant families from Ethiopia and the Former Soviet Union. Through the Anna P. Housen Israel Desk, we fund this program and ensure a bright future for teens who have difficult life circumstances and have significant challenges that other teens in Israel do not face. Without this funding, the program would not be able to operate.

Afula is an area where 40% of the community is made up of new immigrant families and they all face very difficult circumstances on many levels. The work that we are doing now will help make another generation of immigrants prosper in our homeland.

We enjoyed dinner with host families and then trekked back to Tel Aviv for the night. We were exhausted and happy, overwhelmed and inspired, confused and motivated. This was a wonderful trip and I was honored to spend time with such terrific community members. I hope that others will consider joining a Federation Mission the next time we offer one. There is no better way to learn about the intricacies, feel the history, see the sites, taste the food, admire the people, touch the land, and just be in Israel.

A very big big thank you to our mission chairs, Barbara and Jim Sadowsky who through their vision made this trip a reality.

Day 9

Our last full day touring the region began at Israel's national water carrier where we learned how Israel is sending water all over Israel and we learned more about this precious natural resource in the Middle East.

We then wandered the beautiful streets and art galleries of Tsfat and took a shopping break. Our lunch was held in the home of a family that is six generations in Tsfat - in the same home. The family produces cheese from sheep's milk and has been doing so ever since their arrival in Israel in the 1800's.

A stop at the Dalton Winery provided us the opportunity to experience the burgeoning Israeli wine industry. After a tour of the facility, we tasted many of the Dalton wines. We enjoyed both the red and white varieties.

From Tsfat we explored the Golan Heights where we visited Katzrin and traced our biblical history in the region. From Katzrin we went to a previously used Syrian bunker where we could look around the entire area to understand the tremendous strategic significance of the Golan and appreciate its beauty and natural resources. We then enjoyed a lively evening with Colonel Kobi Marom who grew up in the area. We spoke with him about the Northern area of Israel, the Lebanon War of 2006, and the situation of preparedness in Israel today. We addressed Iran's threat in the North arming Hizbullah as well as Israel's other strategic enemies in the area. It was enlightening and hopefully we will be able to bring Kobi to Western Massachusetts for a program in September so that our entire community has the opportunity to hear from this articulate military leader.

Day 8

We left Jerusalem and headed up North where our first stop was an army base in the Galilee. This base serves as the central mainentace station for the Northern command. We were warmly greeted at the base by the commander, a colonel and many other officers. He explained to us the philosophy of the base and took us on a tour of the facility. We had the distinction of meeting the first woman who is about to be promoted to Lieutenant Colonel in the maintenance corps.

We then planted trees in the Galilee and said the prayer for planting trees in Israel that includes the section...make deep their roots and wide their crown, that they may blossom forth in grace amongst all the trees in Israel...

A drive to Tiberius and lunch on the Kinneret (Sea of Galileed) was followed by a much needed rest in order hotel in the North.

Day 7

This very busy started off with an interesting discussion with Michael Kelman who is a foreign correspondent for several publications including the Boston Globe and Time Magazine. The theme of the day was "Israel Today" and we certainly covered that topic investigating the contrast and challenges of this very special city. My father always says a visit to Israel is like taking a walk through history. This is quite true as witnessed on Saturday, but, at the same time a visit to Jerusalem is taking a walk through current events.

Our first stop took us to Hadassah Medical Center where we toured the facility and saw the building of the newest building on the campus. It is an impressive place. We then met with a physician who is one of the chief medical researchers in gene therapy who is investigating cutting edge treatments for many diseases including cancer. We learned about his work and about the process of how studies are done in this particular institution. Following his talk we were brought through the Pediatric Oncology Department where we learned about the treatment in this area. From there we took a tour of the state of the art trauma unit built during the height of the homicide bombings in Israel. This facility was built in a completely secure manner that can be sealed off in case of chemical warfare. The technology of the center, the kindness and openness of the staff and the infrastructure was incredible. What struck me the most was the diversity of the people who are serviced by the hospital, work there and support the institution.

Our lunch was set in a lush garden of a moshav. After a brief visit back at Yad Vashem to see the Children's Memorial, a site that so poignently remembers the 2 million children killed by the Nazis and their potential too, we went onto a facility called Mabat. It was really an honor to see this center in action. Mabat was built in 2000 and serves as central command for the police department in the Old City of Jerusalem. Through a series of 300 cameras in 1 square kilometer, Mabat is able to watch all that is happening in the old city, communicate between the center and the police and record everything that transpires. We were shown several video clips of incidents that were caught on tape - or monitored as they happened - so that people could be apprehended successfully.

From Mabat we were taken on a seam line tour of Jerusalem with a man named Amir Cheshin who was one of Teddy Kollack's right hand men when he was mayor of Jerusalem. Amir explained in depth and showed us on the ground the complicated geography and hence politics of Jerusalem. We toured the area that was recently disputed in the news and caused a flurry of press during Vice President Biden's visit, but more importantly, we saw all the areas that could be problematic at the negotiating table. There is no doubt that we all finished our afternoon with Amir more confused than we started. But what came away clearly from this program was that the issues in Jerusalem are so complex and intertwined with US politics and global politics that the city is in a precarious position from every vantage point.

After another long day we finished with a delicious dinner and a well needed rest.

Day 6

Saturday morning we finally had an opportunity to sleep in and slow down our pace - for a moment. Being that it was Shabbat, our faithful driver, Sasson had the day off so we went on a thorough walking tour of the old city. Looking over the Jerusalem hills, our guide Ronit once again reviewed the time line of the building and destruction of the Temples and the Old City. From there we entered at Zion gate. This particular entrance was built strategically with a 90 degree turn so that if a group wanted to attack the city, they could not enter directly. We witnessed our very own miracle in Jerusalem as a rather large lengthy taxi manipulated its way out of the gate. Our walk took us through the Armenian Quarter and into the Jewish Quarter where we visited the newly opened and rededicated Hurva Synagogue. You may recall a visit to the Old City when you sat in a courtyard and looked at an arch imagining what the synagogue that stood there could have looked like. There is now nothing left to the imagination as this gorgeous rebuilt structure stands proudly again. It was just opened in March. Here is a link to its history http://www.jewish-quarter.org.il/atar-hurva.asp. As you will see this website hasn't been updated with the most recent photo so you will see one here. Here is a link to other pictures of this tremendous structure.http://www.google.co.il/images?hl=en&q=hurva+synagogue&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=CPLVS6naI4-tOIeIvbUO&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CBgQsAQwAw

From the Hurva we continued our walk through the Jewish Quarter, exploring its history. A walk through the Arab market brought us to the rooftop of a building where we were able to view the entire old city in all of its glory and intricacies.

From the Arab Quarter many continued on to the Christian Quarter to see the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. After a rest back at the hotel we returned to the David's City for an outstanding Sound and Light show that graphically displayed the history of Jerusalem's history. It was spectacular. Another full day ended with anticipation of a busy day ahead.

Day 5

Friday was a very full day for us. We started with a drive from Jerusalem southward by the Dead Sea to tour Massada. We enjoyed a very thorough tour of the area, an in depth explanation of the history and a view that was beyond gorgeous. After a quick shopping trip for Ahava Dead Sea products we took a very bumpy (as if there is any other kind) jeep ride through the desert to see the area of S'dom - which is also know as Sodom. In this area of the desert we find mountains made from salt and other minerals. We learned about the mining of the minerals in the area, what they are used for and the significant natural resources that both Israel and Jordan share in this area of the Middle East.

After the jeeps and lunch many went for a float in the Dead Sea. We headed back to Jerusalem to welcome in Shabbat.

As we approached Jerusalem, the feeling of Shabbat's arrival was palpable. The was a quickness and a lightness as people finished up their last minute tasks before Shabbat began. We welcomed Shabbat at the Western Wall and left our precious notes in the wall.

We ate a delicious Shabbat meal in a private home and shared an opportunity to learn with Rabbi Matt Berkowitz from the Jewish Theological Seminary.

Full and exhausted we returned to our hotel for our well needed Shabbat rest.

Day 4

I must confess. I am a little bit behind in my blogging. Tonight I am catching up and going back in time - nearly 5,000 years ago to the arrival of the Hebrews to the land of Canaan. But before I get there we will go to A Better Place - literally.

Thursday started off with a visit to the site of the development, promotion and implementation of the electric car called A Better Place. It was an extraordinary place where we learned how the electric car works, its contribution to the environment and the plan for building the infrastructure in Israel. After we learned all of that - we went out for a test drive on the track. The drove beautifully, as a matter of fact, they felt stronger than a "regular" car and they were completely quiet.















As interesting a place as it was, we went on to another better place - Jerusalem. Our visit started with lunch on Kibbutz Tzuba where we learned about their glass manufacturing business, visited with in their winery and tasted some of their wine. We met several of the Kibbutz members, including a UMass graduate. This particular kibbutz is on the outskirts of Jerusalem and still relies on agriculture as well as industry. It is also one of the few remaining Kibbutzim that has not privatized. Following Tzuba we visited Yad Vashem - the Holocaust Memorial. There are barely words to describe this site and everyone was very moved by the experience.
It was a cold rainy day in Jerusalem - particularly unseasonable weather - that made this visit even more dreary.

Upon leaving Yashem we made a quick stop at the overlook to Jerusalem. A quick check in at the hotel, dinner and then a tour through the tunnels under the old city. It was the first time many had seen the Western Wall and for new timers and old timers it felt great to be inside the Jewish Quarter of the old city. Through the tunnel tour we learned about the history behind the Western Wall and saw the many ancient layers underground. We were cold, tired and our guide through the tunnels appeared to be an automaton kindergarten teacher, but nonetheless we had a very full busy an interesting day full of much joy and sorrow.

Day 3

Today we started out in the lovely old port city of Jaffa. We walked through the lovely narrow streets in the artist colony and made our way to the port. Jaffa has had an incredible face lift in the last few years and it continues to be more and more charming.

From Jaffa we went to Hiriya, also known as Israel's largest dump. Yes, you read that properly, we went to the dump. It was closed and capped off in 1998 as the dump became a mountain. It is now the largest transfer station in Israel and we learned about how Israel is managing its waste and utilizing recycling and alternate forms of energy from the product of waste management. Let's just say, it was not your normal tourist attraction. We did go to the very top of the mountain to see the view - which was lovely - and we learned about how this prime area of real estate is now being recylced into a national park. It is named after Ariel Sharon as he was the Prime Minister who was able to preserve this land as a natural resource.

While at Hiriya we ate lunch in a cafe there - yes - we even stayed for lunch at the dump (for any of you who were considering a trip to Israel, I hope this doesn't turn you off!). The cafe is run by youth at risk through a program called Turning Point that is sponsored by the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee a.k.a. JDC or the Joint. There are 40 such programs like this one that give kids, who have difficult life circumstances, jobs where they can develop entrepreneurial skills in order to seek a brighter future.

We did eventually leave the dump and we headed to the Sheba Medical Center at Tel Hashomer where we met with Dr. Itzak Siev-Ner. He gave us a tour through the rehabilitation facility in the hospital and showed us the holistic approach to healing in the hospital. It was a very impressive facility. We had the opportunity sit and speak with Dr. Siev-Ner and we were able to discuss the Israel medical system with its challenges and successes. Dr. Siev-Ner was also a lead physician for the Israel medical team in Haiti and he shared with us his experiences there as did one of the physical therapists. Dr. Siev-Ner is returning to Haiti with a team next week to help set up long term care and rehabilitation services in Haiti - funded by the JDC - through its humanitarian efforts. He spoke of what it was like on the ground and his growing concerns for the future of this country because of the devastation. It was a fascinating visit with an inspirational man.

You will see in one of the photos a picture of a poster. This for me was an "only in Israel moment." Since we were in a rehabilitation facility there are many people there who are learning how to cope with the loss of a limb through the rehabilitation process. This poster showed devices that one could use to help with day to day tasks when you do not have two hands or arms. If you look closely you will see that there is a picture of an arm with tefillin. This poster is showing the instrument that one can use to put on tefillin - with just one hand - only in Israel.

From the hospital we headed to the Carmel Market for a walk through to see the wares, smell the scents of fresh fruit and sample some of the yummy things being sold. Tomorrow we travel to Jerusalem and everyone is very much looking forward to our time there.

Today was a day of contrasts. It was only appropriate that we began our day at Independence Hall, after all, it is Independence Day. We were taken back in time to the day David Ben Gurion declared Israel a state and relived a very important piece of history. It was interesting to see how many people flocked to this site on Yom Ha'Atzmaut. I couldn't help but wonder in what other country in the world do natives flock to Independence Hall to relive history?

From Independence Hall we went to a place call the Ayalon Institute also known as Givat of the Ayalon Institute places an explanation point after the notion that truth is stranger than fiction. 2.5 million bullets were produced in an underground factory at the institute, right under the noses of the British, without them ever learning about the facility. The factory was hidden underground between a bakery and a laundry. It is quite a heroic story and if you haven't been there - I highly recommend a visit on your next trip to Israel. Here is a link to information about the stroy - but you really can't have the full impact without going for a visit and my quick explanation just does not do any justice to this amazing tale. http://www.gemsinisrael.com/e_article000012009.htm.

Our next visit took us to an unbelievable Youth Alliyah Village called Ben Shemen. We learned of the programs that the school runs, the success the students achieve and the dedication of a tremendous staff. The children who attend this school - some of whom live there in a boarding facility - showcase how Israel takes care if its kids who could potentially fall through the societal cracks and nurtures them to be the best that they can be. Aside from normal academic rigors, the students learn values and how to care for one another and their surroundings. Ben Shemen is so much more than school - children participate in running the agricultural programs like raising animals and farming as well as taking care of their own personal surroundings. And, the school offers all types of extra curricular activities that normally these children would not receive, We met with a group of wonderful kids and the director of the school and learned of the many famous graduates who have come through this facility, like Shimon Peres. At 87 years old, the facility is going strong and improving the lives of children every day.

While we were there we had the opportunity not only to meet kids and staff, but we also collected eggs, saw the cows being milked and fed the calves.

This day brought together what Independence means for Israel and for Jews around the globe. We learned of those who sacrificed long ago and we saw how we still sacrifice today for a safe and secure country. We saw that a modern state has modern day problems, but we also saw how we have created tremendously innovative solutions - whether we need to manufacture bullets in a clandestine manner or make sure our children thrive. People give just as much today as they did 62 years ago with the founding of the State. We were reminded that as a modern country, Israel is still brand new, but has done the extraordinary in so many different ways.

Our day wound down in the evening with a wonderful walk on the new pier in the port area of Tel Aviv. It is hard to believe that this was our first full day.

Our group arrived today - safe and sound. After meeting at the airport we went to Tel Aviv to visit the Trumpeldor Cemetery. Yes, you would think this is an odd way to start a visit to Israel. As a matter of fact, a very perplexed Israeli approached me and said "it is really strange and weird that you have a tour group at the cemetery." When I explained to him that we were there for two reasons:

1) It is memorial day
2) There is tons of history in the cemetery that relates to the founding of the State of Israel. Since we are about to celebrate Yom Ha'Atzmaut - doesn't it make sense to learn about some of the important famous founders?

His response to me was, you think our history can be found in a cemetery? So, here is what I was reminded of - don't argue with Israels. And, it is indeed a small piece of history in the cemetery. We are still making history right now and it think that is what he was trying to say. It was an interesting visit as we saw the graves of those early Zionist leaders who believed in a modern State of Israel. We read poetry from Achad Ha'am and Bialik. We gained historical context from where we have come and what sacrifices were made for a modern State's independence and by whom . That was the most important point of being in the Trumpeldor Cemetery.

As Yom Hazikaron ended, our celebration of Yom Ha'atzmaut began. We had a delicious welcome dinner followed by a walk to Rabin Square. We enjoyed the throngs of people, the singing, dancing, music and fireworks. It never ceases to amaze me how Israelis celebrate Independence day, cherishing each year and not taking one more for granted. Tomorrow will be a long day sharing in the joy of a modern Israel.

I arrived in Israel this afternoon. There is no feeling in the world quite like the one you have when your plane touches down in Israel. As corny as it sounds, it truly feels like coming home. When I came through baggage claim I met my driver. In my distinctly American way of trying to make polite conversation, I asked him if he had been waiting long, and his gruff response was, "yes, over an hour." Welcome home! It brought a big smile to my face.

It is a somber day to arrive as Yom Hazikaron just began a few moments ago. A siren blew and the country came to a complete stop for a minute to remember those who have fallen in defense of our homeland. Yom Hazikaron and Yom Ha'atzmaut are both secular holidays that transcend religious observance and go straight to the heart of our country - remembering the loss of life in defending Israel's right to exist and the establishment of a Jewish State only 62 short years ago. I always feel honored to be here for these two very precious holidays.

I went for a walk soon after arriving at the hotel and once again I am amazed at the hustle and bustle in Tel Aviv as there are buildings being built and the area is teeming with visitors. In the midst of all the hubbub, I passed a brightly painted sign reminding passers by that Gilad Shalit is still in captivity. This is the distinct juxtaposition of life in Israel - growth, development and technology - but never without losing site of who we are or the politics that surrounds us. This really is the theme of this trip and I look forward to sharing more with you soon. He are some photos from my arrival in Tel Aviv.

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